Ruth Gumbau @ruthgumbau – “No saps què és timbrar?”, em pregunta el Siscu estranyat. Li he de confessar que no sé a què es refereix. “És posar el segell amb la data i el nom de cada vi. També enganxo les etiquetes, llimpio les botelles, empaqueto…”. Ho explica cofoi. El Siscu fa set anys que forma part de L’Olivera, una cooperativa de vins i olis on la major part dels treballadors conviuen a la llar-residència de Vallbona de les Monges (Urgell) per a persones amb discapacitat intel·lectual.
Són les dues de la tarda. I això vol dir que tothom seu a taula per dinar plegats. No és una tradició; és un manament. Tothom que treballa, o visita, l’Olivera ha de tastar els plats de la Rosa. Plats generosos, ja que molts d’ells han estat feinejant a les vinyes. Avui tothom està especialment afectuós amb ella: s’havia de jubilar aquesta setmana però fa dos dies es va assabentar que li quedava encara un mes de feina per cotitzar: “tinc ganes de descansar però sé que ho trobaré a faltar, això és com casa meua”. I es trasllada mentalment als anys 70: “Al principi era tot ben estrany, un capellà progre, molta gent jove que venia amb ell, que feien de voluntaris…”.
També el recorda en Carles de Ahumada, el president de l’Olivera: “Era molt hippy, el pare Segura, i molt tossut. Creia que tots eren iguals: tinguessin una discapacitat o no”. Parla d’ell amb un somriure. El Carles va arribar a Vallbona gairebé al principi i va poder conèixer el pare Segura. Al començament van viure a l’antiga casa del mestre. Després van construir un xalet, conegut ara com “la casa vella” i més tard vindria la residència i el celler, un projecte del qual el pare Segura va poder gaudir molt poc, ja que moriria l’any 1978.
Un celler que funciona gràcies a les enòlogues, tècnics i a la mà d’obra dels nois i noies de la residència. Els que els agrada el camp i tenen una millor forma física treballen a les vinyes. La resta ho fa al celler embotellant, etiquetant, empaquetant o el que faci falta. Aquí gairebé tot és manual: no hi ha cap màquina que reculli el raïm o que enganxi les etiquetes; es posen una per una a les ampolles que acaben de netejar, drap en mà, el Siscu, el Miquel Àngel, el Jordi o algun dels seus companys. “Entre la maquinària i donar feina a les persones, escollim les persones. Podríem incrementar la producció però no ho necessitem”, explica el Carles. No són les úniques feines artesanals que s’hi realitzen: l’octau de volta que s’ha de fer cada dia a les ampolles de cava mentre reposen els llevats també es fa movent les gàbies manualment i fins i tot el degollament es fa sense congelar els sediments: tot amb les mans, la paciència necessària i la perícia adquirida al llarg dels anys. Tot i que la producció és petita (amb un màxim de 150.000 ampolles l’any), la qualitat dels seus vins i caves no ha passat desapercebuda i actualment exporten a una dotzena de països: entre ells Noruega, el Canadà o, recentment, els Estats Units.
El model de l’Olivera és reconegut arreu del món a diferents escales: per treballar amb discapacitats, per la viticultura, pel model d’economia social que desenvolupen i també pels projectes de cooperació a tot del món en què participen: el 0,7% de totes les vendes es dedica a zones pobres o en conflicte. Per tots aquests aspectes estan acostumats que els visitin associacions i governs de molts països, com el de Colòmbia: fa només uns mesos un membre del Ministeri de Treball d’aquest país hi va anar per aprendre el model cooperatiu i poder-lo implantar a les zones controlades per les FARC com a via de subsistència per als exguerrilers, una mesura inclosa en el Tractat de Pau.
De les 16 persones que viuen a la residència, n’hi ha algunes que no treballen i que participen al grup de teràpia ocupacional –els okupes, com els anomenen amb afecte; són les que no tenen prou capacitat per treballar o que han arribat a l’edat de la jubilació. Com l’Anita, que s’ocupa de fer els llits cada matí, que li encanta fer ganxet i les manualitats, “però també em pinto les ungles de tant en tant, eh?”, remarca. És molt detallista i li va traient les fulles que se li han enganxat al jersei de llana de l’Henar mentre parlo amb ella. L’Henar Gómez és la coordinadora de serveis de la llar. Ella i els monitors intenten que els residents siguin el més autònoms possibles. Els atorguen tasques com plegar la roba neta, recollir la taula o encarregar-se del reciclatge. “Això últim és cosa del Josep Maria i li va valdre un premi de l’ajuntament”, explica tota inflada. Alguns treballadors decideixen quedar-se a la llar quan es jubilen, uns altres tornen amb les famílies –si és que en tenen– i altres, com la Mercè i el Paco van anar a viure sols. Es van enamorar mentre treballaven a l’Olivera. A la llar, al contrari d’altres residències, els deixaven fer vida en parella compartint habitació i quan van fer els 65 anys se’n van anar primer amb una germana i, després, tots sols a un pis.
Des de fa 8 anys l’Olivera gestiona també Can Calopa, una parcel·la de l’ajuntament de Barcelona, a la serra de Collserola a tocar de Molins de Rei, i també disposen d’una llar-residència on conviuen 12 persones que treballen a les vinyes i al celler. Però aquí la filosofia és molt diferent a la de Vallbona: mentre que a la casa original les persones que hi viuen i treballen poden estar-s’hi fins que ho vulguin, a Can Calopa tots són joves d’entre 19 i 32 anys que s’hi estaran un màxim de 6 ò 7 anys. La directora de Can Calopa, la Dolors Llonch, admet que se’ls deixa molt clar que “no han d’arrelar-se aquí, han d’acabar marxant i per això se’ls ensenya a fer la bugada, a cuinar, a estalviar…”. Com el Cristian, que s’ha tret el carnet de conduir i s’acaba de comprar una moto. “Com són tan joves, els falta l’experiència i disciplina a l’hora de treballar al camp i al celler, però alhora tenen molta energia”, reconeix l’enòleg, l’Iñigo Haughey. Energia extra que necessiten a Can Calopa i és que després de diversos anys produint el Vinyes de Barcelona i el Vinyes de Collserola per ser els vins institucionals del consistori, des de fa un parell d’anys s’han començat a vendre a botigues i restaurants. Aquesta nova exigència comercial aporta una motivació extra per a tot l’equip.
Tenir a les mans una copa del Vinyes de Barcelona, del Missenyora o del Naltres, és més que tenir un vi a la mà: és la moto del Cristian, el ganxet de l’Anita, el premi de reciclatge del Josep Maria, els calendaris impossibles de l’Henar i la Dolors, els records del Carles, els segells del Siscu, les vinyes de l’Iñigo i el somni del pare Segura.
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